The croque of the matter: A café classic that stands the test of time

The French chef Joël Robuchon once noted that it’s the simplest foods that are often the most difficult to prepare well. He believed that for straightforward dishes, fine ingredients are the key to success. Even when it comes to the humble ham and cheese sandwich, your choice of fillings and bread can elevate a quick lunch to an exceptional one. If that sandwich is served golden brown after a quick trip to a butter-filled sauté pan — and then topped off with some shredded cheese and maybe béchamel sauce — it’ll be transformed into a true French classic: the Croque Monsieur.

First debuting on a Parisian café menu in the early 1900s, the “mister crunch” may have been born out of necessity when the bistro owner ran out of baguettes and toasted pan de mie sliced bread to serve his ham and cheese sandwiches on instead. Word of mouth followed, and the hot, toasted sandwiches became a French icon; they are both filled and topped with cheese when made the traditional way.

While they’re traditionally made with Gruyére or Emmental, variations have appeared over the decades, including the Croque Gagnet, which is made with Gouda cheese and Andouille sausage. The nutty, caramel notes of the cheese complement the bold smokiness of the sausage, and both of the fillings’ textures contrast with the crunchy toasted bread (we like thick-cut French bread for this application; add a swipe of whole-grain mustard to give the combo a sharp, rustic bite).

Camembert-style cheese also makes for a nice variation on the old-school Croque Monsieur. Called a Croque Normand after the cheese’s origin in Normandy, and paired with apples to echo that region’s famed apple cider and Calvados, its classic apple and pear brandy, the Camembert version makes for an unforgettable melty, sweet, and savory treat.

No matter what fillings you choose, a Croque Monsieur is simple to make. Some connoisseurs top their creations with béchamel sauce, but the base ingredients — especially if you stick to high-quality bread, real butter, and top-notch cheese and ham — will have enough star quality to satisfy. Just treat those ingredients as you would when making a grilled cheese sandwich, then top off with the grated cheese of your choice and place on a baking sheet under a preheated broiler long enough for it to melt.