Hoard’s earns awards: high stakes and high scores in the Cheese Capital

Green County, Wis., is home to Monroe, the “Cheese Capital” of the nation. So it comes as no surprise that the Green County annual county fair focuses heavily on the stuff, with an annual cheese contest that brings dedicated cheesemakers from across the state — as well as some seriously dedicated judges. More than 80 entries were on the docket this year, from a total of 35 different cheesemakers.

Most cheese competitions rate entries using a 100-point scoring system, evaluating flavor, texture, finish, and appearance (points are typically split between a technical judge and an aesthetic judge). Each cheese is judged according to its variety’s standard, rather than against the other entries. 

Scores start at 100 and points are deducted as judges develop their opinions on the cheeses; for example, Cheddar is evaluated by its sweetness, saltiness, acidity, and nuttiness, as well as a lack of bitterness or fruitiness. It should be consistently firm in texture without being crumbly. 

While the attributes are subjective and change among the categories, the judges have the experience to run the scores out to the hundredth decimal. Competitors sometimes win — or lose — by a vanishingly small difference. At this year’s competition, Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery took home third place for its two-year aged Governor’s Select Cheddar, which scored 98.05. Our Mexican-style Manchego garnered cheesemaker Ricardo Gutierrez a first place, with a score of 99.55.